I planned a visit to Split on my Croatia trip basically just as a stop on my way from the islands of Korcula and Hvar, to Zagreb – and then was surprised that it turned out to be one of my favorite cities in Europe! While it doesn’t have the dramatic architecture of Dubrovnik, it is literally a city built within a former Roman palace – how cool is that? The waterfront is wonderful, wandering the narrow streets in the city center is a delight, and perhaps because it’s a big university town it has a really great sort of social energy. That said, 48 hours is plenty of time to get a feel for it – you could potentially even combine a long weekend flying in and out of Split with a trip to Hvar. (See my post on Hvar and Korcula – and Dubrovnik – here.)
Day 1 – Split Sunset
4pm – If you can arrive in the afternoon, get situated and then head straight out to the Klis Fortress to catch the sunset. There are buses that go there from Split, or you can take a Bolt (the most common ride-sharing service in Croatia, usually not too expensive) – it’s a 20-30 minute drive. For any Game of Thrones fans, this is where they filmed the scenes outside of Meereen! And of course it has a fascinating real-life history. After buying a ticket you can explore a variety of rooms and old structures, but one of the highlights is definitely the view – so do try to time your visit with sunset if you can.
8pm – Get dinner at one of the cafes in the narrow streets and alleys just west of the city center, or along the waterfront Riva. (The Riva has plenty of bars as well, or start exploring the old city if you’re in search of a drink after dinner.)
Day 2 – Central Split & Hvar
8am – Get an early start walking through the historic city center, built within the Roman emperor Diocletian’s palace. Be sure to check out the square around the Saint Dominus Cathedral, where you’ll also see the ancient “Vestibul” and other Roman buildings and ruins. If you like to see the city when it’s less crowded I recommend walking around a bit first, then going to Diocletian’s Cellars when they open around 8:30 or 9am. (This is another Game of Thrones filming location that is also fascinating in its own right.)
11am – Head towards the wharf where the ferries to the islands depart and grab brunch at one of the cafes nearby (also near the bus and train stations).
12pm – Take a ferry to Hvar (only an hour or so)
1pm – Drop your stuff off wherever you’re staying, then hit the beach – either close to town at Kriza Beach, or walk along the water (about 30-45 minutes) to Pokonji Dol. (You can walk back overland and save a little time getting back into town.)
7pm – Stake out a table to watch the sunset from the Hula Hula Beach Bar, then head back into town for dinner (and maybe all the way to Carpe Diem to finish the night!)
Day 3 – Hvar and Split
10am – Maybe you were out late last night? “Sleep in” a little, and grab coffee or breakfast on your way to the ferry – there are several cafes along the plaza by the waterfront, and fancy coffee shops along the street just one block up from the Riva (check out kava37).
11am – Catch the ferry back to Split
12pm – Stop by the Green Market on the eastern edge of the old city for some picnic snacks, then take the bus or a Bolt to the Marjan peninsula/hill/park. There you can visit Kasjuni Beach, the Mestrovic Gallery, and/or explore the park before you say goodbye to Split.
Essentials for a Weekend in Croatia
Where to stay in Croatia:
- Where to stay in Split – I actually stayed outside of the city center, a bit northeast in the “Plokite” neighborhood. It was so easy and cheap to take Bolt rides or the bus that I thought it was no problem staying a little ways away from the main sights.
- On Hvar I stayed in an Airbnb just up the hill from the main part of town, close to the Miće Marchija road which heads out of town. I was really happy with that area; it was quiet and better value than staying right downtown, but easy to walk to and from – and also sort of on the way back from the Pokonji Dol beach!
Getting around Croatia:
- Croatian ferries: I booked ferry tickets in advance online – how early you need to book probably depends on the time of year, but visiting in late May I was okay booking only a couple of weeks out. The ferries between Dubrovnik, Split, and the islands are small – basically catamarans – and comfortable.
- Getting around Split and Hvar – If you stay in the old town/central areas of Split and Hvar you’ll be fine just walking. I also took buses and Bolt rides in Split which were both cheap and easy to navigate. There may be buses on Hvar as well but I didn’t try them; many people rent cars or mopeds on Hvar to explore more of the island.
What to do about money in Croatia: I mostly used my credit card, in Dubrovnik and on the islands, but it was helpful to have some cash as well – Croatia now uses the Euro. Note tipping is not particularly common but if you do want to tip you may want cash as you’ll have to make a point of asking to add a tip on a credit card payment.
Best photo spots in Split and Hvar: My favorite photos from Split where from the Klis Fortress, and in the plaza near the Saint Dominus Cathedral. But the whole historic city within the walls of Diocletian’s Palace is really fascinating and beautiful – try to just wander around and see what interesting details you find. On Hvar, I liked wandering the streets going up the hill from the harbor towards the fortress, and looking at the harbor/port from the east and west.
