Croatia’s popularity seems to have taken off in recent years, and on my visit in spring 2023 I was excited to see Dubrovnik in all its Game of Thrones glory – but also wary of crowds that might make staying for very long overwhelming. I was also curious to explore some of the nearby islands, and planned a route to get from Dubrovnik to Split via boat to the islands of Korcula and Hvar. Below is a bit of a stretch of my usual “48 Hours” format, but I do think you can enjoy Dubrovnik and at least one of the islands with a long weekend in Croatia – especially if you can arrive on a Friday afternoon and leave sometime Monday.
Night 1 – Dubrovnik
3pm – Start by relaxing and enjoying the water at Banje or Bellevue Beach (note, these are on opposite sides of town, you could pick based on where you’re staying), or get a drink and maybe take a swim at Buza Bar on the outside of the town walls.
6pm – Grab gelato at Peppino’s
7pm – Hike or take the cable car up to Mt. Srd for incredible sunset views (note, the cable car is pretty expensive; the hike isn’t too difficult, but allow about an hour from the trailhead which is itself a bit of a hike out of town – just look for “Mt. Srd Hiking Trail” on the map).
9pm – Have dinner in the Old Town
Day 2 – Dubrovnik and Korcula
8am – Plan to spend at least 2 hours enjoying the walk around the famous Dubrovnik walls. Bring breakfast to go if you like, but plan to get a coffee at one of the cafes with a view of the water.
10:30am – Head over to the West Harbor and Fort Lovrijenac (great for GoT fans but beautiful regardless)
12:30pm – Grab a sandwich at Buffet Škola and walk around the Old Town
2pm – Get the ferry to Korcula, an island with a picturesque pedestrian old town and a laid-back vibe
4pm – Explore the tiny and charming Korcula old town, then walk up to the viewpoint a little southwest of town (look for “panorama” or “viewpoint” on the map)
6pm – Check out one of the wine bars on the main street that goes towards the end of little old town peninsula; I really liked sitting outside at Bokar Wine Bar
7pm – Get dinner at one of the many restaurants along the water
9pm – Finish the night with a drink on a turret! The unique Massimo cocktail bar has an unforgettable location and wide assortment of drinks to enjoy once you make your way up the ladder.
Day 3 – Hvar
9am – Back on the ferry, about one hour to Hvar!
10:30am – Grab brunch at one of the cafes along the plaza just east of the port – or, there are plenty of fancy coffee shops!
12pm – Drop your stuff off wherever you’re staying, then hit the beach – either close to town at Kriza Beach, or walk along the water (about 30-45 minutes) to Pokonji Dol. (You can walk back overland and save a little time getting back into town.)
7pm – Stake out a table to watch the sunset from the Hula Hula Beach Bar, then head back into town for dinner (and maybe all the way to Carpe Diem to finish the night!)
Essentials for a Weekend in Croatia (Dubrovnik and islands)
Where to stay in Croatia:
- Where to stay in Dubrovnik – You pay a premium to stay within the city walls in Dubrovnik. I heard good things about some of the hostels, but I found a really reasonably priced room in a house (through Booking.com) a bit northwest of the Old Town. Note that the ferries for the islands (as well as long-distance buses) leave from the port that is also northwest of Old Town, so it can be convenient to stay out in that direction. I walked from the port to where I stayed, then took the bus to Old Town and back to the port.
- On Korcula, I stayed at the hostel on Ul. don Iva Matijace opata – a bit hard to find online, but I was happy with it!
- On Hvar I stayed in an Airbnb just up the hill from the main part of town, close to the Miće Marchija road which heads out of town. I was really happy with that area; it was quiet and better value than staying right downtown, but easy to walk to and from – and also sort of on the way back from the Pokonji Dol beach!
Getting around Croatia:
- Travel within Croatia – I took a bus from Kotor, Montenegro to Dubrovnik and it worked out well, including the border crossing. I booked the ticket online maybe a week in advance. I also booked ferry tickets in advance online – how early you need to book probably depends on the time of year, but visiting in late May I was okay booking only a couple of weeks out. The ferries between Dubrovnik, Split, and the islands are small – basically catamarans – and again, note that the port where you catch the ferries in Dubrovnik is not quite near the Old Town.
- Getting around Dubrovnik – The bus system was fairly easy to navigate just using the signs at the bus stops, which show the routes and approximate frequency. I never had to wait long for a bus. If you get the ticket to walk the city walls, it may come with a bus pass.
- Getting around the islands – If you stay in the old town/central areas on Korcula and Hvar you’ll be fine just walking. I took a bus on Korcula that went out to some of the other towns and beaches; the schedule was easy to find online and confirm in person at the station in Korcula, and you could buy a ticket online or with cash. There may be buses on Hvar as well but I didn’t try them; many people rent cars or mopeds on Hvar to explore more of the island.
What to do with more time in Croatia:
Visit Split! See my post on a weekend in Split and Hvar here.
- What to do with more time in Dubrovnik – There are a few museums in town and plenty of shopping, but the activity I didn’t try but heard the most about was taking a kayak tour – would love to try that next time! You can also take a boat out to the island of Lokrum which is right near Old Town.
- What to do with more time on Korcula – You can take the bus or rent a bike and explore beaches fairly close to the main Korcula town – head southeast to Lumbarda Beach (where you can also take a water taxi) or Vela Przina Beach.
- What to do with more time on Hvar – hike up to the fortress for great views; take a boat tour (most go to some of the other nearby islands as well); rent a car, moped, or ATV and explore more of the island.
What to do about money in Croatia: I mostly used my credit card, in Dubrovnik and on the islands, but it was helpful to have some cash as well – Croatia now uses the Euro. Note tipping is not particularly common but if you do want to tip you may want cash as you’ll have to make a point of asking to add a tip on a credit card payment.
Best photo spots in Dubrovnik and the islands:
- Dubrovnik – For views of the Old Town and Dubrovnik city walls, try Gradac park as well as the Lovrijenac fortress. There are lots of good guides online (and in-person tours) to help you find GoT photo spots; whether you care about GoT or not, the West Harbor is very photogenic. Views all along the city walls and from Mt. Srd are also incredible.
- Islands – On Korcula my favorite photo is from a viewpoint a little southwest of town (look for “panorama” or “viewpoint” on the map). On Hvar, I liked wandering the streets going up the hill from the harbor towards the fortress, and looking at the harbor/port from the east and west.
