Edinburgh, not to mention Scotland more broadly, certainly merits more than a weekend trip – but if 48 hours is all you have, here’s how to make the most of a weekend in Edinburgh! Below my suggested itinerary you’ll also find some tips for planning your trip and getting around the city.
Day 1 – The Royal Mile
5pm – After getting settled wherever you’re staying (the area near Waverly Station/Princes Street is very convenient), head up to the castle Esplanade to get the lay of the land. Wander down the Royal Mile and into side streets as you like until you’re ready for dinner.
7pm – Most of the restaurants right on the Mile are pretty touristy; if you’re looking for something a little different, head south of the Mile and look for somewhere near South Bridge or between there and George IV Bridge to the west.
Day 2 – Lots of walks & lots of history
8 or 9am – Take a morning stroll up Calton Hill to enjoy views of the city as well as the Scott Monument and Balmoral Hotel along the way on Princes Street.
10am – Head over South Bridge to the National Museum of Scotland, grabbing breakfast where you like on the way. The series of exhibits on Scottish history will help you get oriented to narratives you’ll encounter at other sights, and there are lots of less history-focused exhibits as well.
12:30pm – There are lots of lunch spots near the Museum and near the University of Edinburgh campus.
1:30pm – Wander through Greyfriar Kirk and the historic graveyard, then down the Vennel Steps for a great view of the castle. Take picturesque Victoria Street back up to the mile.
2pm – Choose your next historical adventure:
- Going inside the Edinburgh Castle is a popular choice if you want to see the “Honours of Scotland” (crown, sceptre and sword) and/or you enjoy military history or want to see the old dungeons.
- The tour of Real Mary King’s Close takes you through the old homes that are now sealed underneath the City Chambers; while there’s not necessarily a lot to see persay, the guides share fascinating stories about the former residents, the plague, and the growth of the city that resonate all the more as you’re walking through the narrow passageways.
- The Edinburgh Writer’s Museum, tucked down Lady Stair’s Close in a 1622 home, has artifacts and information about the lives of Robert Burns, Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson as well as some other Scottish writers.
4pm – Be sure to go inside St. Giles’ Cathedral to see the many stained glass windows and the chapel of the Knights of the Thistle. Before you leave the Mile, check out the variety of historical sites and monuments in the area between the Castle and South Bridge: the Mercat Cross, the David Hume statue, the Heart of Midlothian, and more.
If you didn’t do Calton Hill in the morning, it’s also a great place for sunset views!
Day 3 – Museums, a Palace, and more views!
9am – The Water of Leith and the Water of Leith Walkway connect the Royal Botanic Garden with the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. Start at the picturesque bridge near Dean Village and head one way or the other, depending on whether you’re in the mood for Picassos or plants. (Both open at 10am, and have cafes where you can grab breakfast if you didn’t eat before getting started.)
11am or 12pm – Take the tram or bus back to the Scottish National Gallery for some less modern art. You can get lunch before or after in the cafe there, or on the way up to the Mile.
2pm – Walk down the rest of the Royal Mile, and make sure you have advance tickets for the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Here you can explore many more historical interiors than at the Castle, as well as the ruins of the old Abbey on the palace grounds and the lawns behind it, with views of Salisbury Crags.
4pm – Hike into Holyrood Park next door and choose your next adventure – up to Arthur’s Seat or Salisbury Crags for epic views of the city and beyond, or a shorter distance to the ruins of St. Anthony’s Chapel.
Essentials for a Weekend in Edinburgh
A few more practical tips to make the most of a weekend in Edinburgh:
Where to stay in Edinburgh: I stayed near Princes Street & Waverly Station and found the area very convenient for getting to the Mile as well as other parts of town. I stayed at The Loft hostel and was very happy with it; the beds are private “pods” with curtains across the entrance and you get in the front door and into the rooms with a key code. There are two CoDE locations and this one doesn’t have staff on-site, but you can call or text them as needed, and there is a common room/kitchen with space to hang out and everything you need for cooking and food storage.
Getting around Edinburgh: From the airport, you can take a bus or the tram. Both are quick and easy to pay for with a card. Once you get into the city center, if you like walking you won’t need to take transit, but if you do there are lots of buses as well as the tram along the north side/New Town.
What to do about money in Edinburgh: I didn’t take out any cash and just used my card for everything with no problems. Note tipping is not particularly common but if you do want to tip, you may want cash, as you’ll have to make a point of asking to add a tip on a credit card payment.
Best photo spots in Edinburgh: For views of the city, you can’t beat Calton Hill or Arthur’s Seat/Salisbury Crags – but if you don’t feel like hiking, the views from the Esplanade area right next to the castle are incredible as well! For views of the castle, try the Vennel Steps and Princes Street heading west from The Mound – I loved the views from The Parish Church of St. Cuthbert in particular. Picturesque streets include Victoria Street and Cockburn Street on either side of the Mile, and Circus Lane and Dean Village near the Water of Leith.
